Gsx 1100 Manual For Carbs
The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression.
With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5! But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours.
To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives.
Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof.
In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine. Incoming search terms:. 1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line.
7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover.
10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. Before you install your new ASV brake lever, you MUST choose the correct brake light switch tab to install. You will find in the package with this lever one plastic bag with four smaller bags inside of it. One bag has two small phillips screws. The other three bags have small black aluminum blocks (light switch tabs) with labels on them. Part# BRC511-H is ONLY for HONDA motorcycles.
Part# BRC511-STK is for all SUZUKI, TRIUMPH and 05-06 KAWASAKI ZX636R motorcycles ONLY. Part# BRC511-K is for all KAWASAKI motorcycles EXCEPT the 05-06 ZX636R. Choose the correct tab for your bike and install it onto the lever as shown in photo 2b using the two small Phillips head screws provided. It is recommended that you use locktite or another type of thread locking adhesive to make sure these screws do not come loose. Be sure to tighten these screws as tight as you can without stripping them.
The brake stop / light tab is required for your ASV brake lever to work properly Carefully place the lever into the master cylinder while inserting the plunger rod into the barrel hole as shown in photo 4. Install the main pivot bolt, and tighten it until it is snug against the master cylinder. Do not over-tighten, as it could cause the lever to bind in the master cylinder. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5.
Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig.
Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up.
The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on.
The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable.
Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this. To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables.
Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.
Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual.NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. Of pressure).
These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl, these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information.
You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with.5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard Incoming search terms:.
Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning.
Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning.
Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6.
Re-install engine cover and seats. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. Needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8.
Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust.
They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs.
Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing. Incoming search terms:. To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp.
Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp. Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual.NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock.
Suzuki Gsx 1100 For Sale
We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. Of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl, these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb.
The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with.5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.
Your Mikuni HSR is fitted with the tuning parts we found to work with the great majority of engine performance modifications. However, the large number of differing exhaust systems and cams available makes it impossible to accommodate all possible combinations with one carburetor set-up. Your HSR will almost certainly run correctly on your engine without exchanging any parts. But, if it doesn’t, you may alter its tuning to suit your engine’s needs by following this guide. Some exhaust system designs strongly interfere with carburetor tuning.
For instance, it is very difficult to get smooth and responsive carburetion through the entire rpm range with straight pipes and completely open exhausts. In addition, very small volume, small diameter mufflers are often ‘seen’ by the engine as straight pipes and present the same tuning difficulties. Very long duration cams often cause relatively poor running below about 3,000 rpm, depending upon the individual cam’s intake valve closing point. Such cams cause reverse airflow out the mouth of the carburetor (often called “reversion” or “standoff”) that can be mistaken for a carburetor tuning problem. Harley-Davidson Screamin’ Eagle performance parts are proven and predictable.
Gsx 1100 Manual For Carbs In Avocado
If you have any doubts about a particular exhaust system, air cleaner or ignition, you may substitute the Harley Screamin’ Eagle parts as a “reality check.” When re-tuning is required, it usually involves small alterations to the idle and/or main system. The following pages supply enough information to make such alterations relatively simple.
Please note that there is no point in attempting to tune any carburetor unless the engine is sound and in a good state of tune. If you have any doubts about the general condition of your engine, have it checked by your dealer or an experienced mechanic before attempting to fine-tune your Mikuni. Incoming search terms:.
This video demonstrates the procedure to synchronize a carburetor on a 1977 Honda CB550. It is really important, especially for bikes of this vintage, to synchronize your carbs at the beginning of every riding season or after any repair or adjustment to the carbs. This bike still needs some work to be road ready, but it has a lot of potential and is super cafe racer cool. If you are attempting to do this procedure yourself and have any questions before you start, feel free to let me know. That's the good thing about Youtube, FREE INFORMATION FOR ALL!!!!!
EDIT: Here are a few edits I would like to make to this video after watching it a couple of times. Make sure your carb synch comes after everything else in a normal tune up. This includes Valve clearances, cam chain tension, spark plug gap/cleaning, point gap, ignition timing, air filter cleaning/replacement, and all the air bleed screw settings should be checked. Engine speed for a carb synch should be around 1500rpms if possible.
The adjuster screw lockdown nuts should always be re-tightened after adjustment (I forgot to show it).